This is Prague Castle, said to be the largest complex of its kind in the world. Of course I took the number 22 tram there. It ran through Belveder, Prague Castle and the end of the line is Pohořelec, which I discovered later because a sense of direction in old streets is impossible.
Those who know me, understand I enjoy the scenic route. Wrong Way Grafton, sometimes unfairly you mock me. How was I to know? I got off, the tram tickets here cost just 24 Crowns, and when you consider 1,000 Crowns is around US$50, this is a cheap destination!
Being lost, as I was, there was but one solution. Pilsner. A pint later, the barman pointed to the edge of the crappy tourist map to indicate I was indeed at the end of the line. The Czech's are very friendly so far, and I do like that.
I'd come down from the corner of Austria and Slovakia, where I was on business the day prior. Peter the taxi driver took me three and a half hours, for 5,500 Crowns (US$250). I think that was fair - he had to drive back again of course! Nice man, fractured English. Good driver too. In a Skoda, of course. The national car.
Of course I met Jaroslav Róna. I had to muscle aside a group of Russian tourists to get this picture. Some cultures, they must touch a statue. I tried to explain how, in Australia, we must kiss it.
Loved this old Trabant. Remember U2 had several of these on the tour in the early 1990's? Prague and indeed the Republic were part of the USSR until the Velvet Revolution. They never looked back - they offloaded the Slovakians, who now have their own (even cheaper) country, with the capital Bratslavia. We drove through there on the way in, from Vienna airport.
I'd flown to Vienna from Chicago, via Zurich. Swiss Air are tremendously efficient, the plane rolls up to the gate and they get that door open faster than I've ever seen and motion you off. None of the faffing around we experience daily in our country!
Up at The Castle, these poor buggers stand erect with their wooden guns, unflinching as dumb Australian tourists egg them on to mug for the camera and kids jump up and down and wave their arms a breath away. Worst job in uniform, probably did something bad late at night with a lonely Bratsworst and got caught.
I walked up Petrin Park, a really steep climb to the tower. Passed this little establishment along the way. Not much in the way of ambiance but no one answered my hopeful knock and call.
Walking.... walking .... took a few wrong turns and ended up on the Milady Horakove, a main road where they are making a big road tunnel. I had to stumble through the roadworks, of course. The workers ignored me, the tourist map in my left hand said it all really.
Exhausted, I returned to the Hotel 16 Kateriny which is a FABULOUS boutique place about 15 minutes from Wenceslas Square - the tourist centre of Prague. Beware pickpockets, they say, so I had the wallet in the front pocket but no need to worry - even at dusk on my way to dinner at Grosello at the Marina it was safe as anything!
So this is it. Alone and happy, Pilsner on the go, food on the river Vltava. Hard to imagine but it floods occasionally - this was in June this year, but nowhere near as bad as 2002 which was a disaster.
I've had breakfast and chatted with the delightful Pavla here at Hotel 16. I really must plug this place, it is essence of Prague and very caring. About US $160, there are cheaper, but this one is first class and truly great.
I'm headed to Central to buy a ticket (hopefully) on the 10.30am train to Berlin now.
Prague. Probably best to enjoy with a significant other, as I think it is one of the most romantic and affordable cities in Europe.
Enjoy!
No comments:
Post a Comment