This is a Beechcraft B36 high performance single engine aircraft. Since Disaster story # 1, seven years have transpired. I'd spent that time staying legal, usually flying every month. I had one uneventful trip to Frazer Island and one to Noosa, both from Sydney. Uneventful if you discard whinging UK relatives, or poor Jess puking on me from the backseat while we bumped and thumped at 500' up the beach north of Newcastle to avoid military airspace at Williamstown.
This chapter is about the first REALLY big trip, planned by my daughter Jess and myself. She was by now 11, and super keen to be my co-pilot. We did everything together back then, she was like a friendly puppy dog, always at my side, metaphorical tail wagging.
We hired the B36 because it was a kick-arse aircraft. You could plan at 160 knots per hour, which means you'd travel almost 300km in a straight line each hour 'on the clock'. It had retractable gear and a constant speed propeller, which required adjustment for best angle of attack whenever the phase of flight changed.
I'd achieved a night rating which meant I could fly visually at night, and the rating came with ten or so hours of instrument flying practice, which gave me even more confidence than I needed.
MISTAKE 1
June 26 1998 we packed and loaded at Bankstown, Australia's busiest airport with three runways in simultaneous use. With just two of us, the six seat aircraft could be fueled to the max and fly a lot longer and further than our endurance.
We had plenty of stuff - tools, spare booze and two portable EPIRBS (Emergency position indicating radiobeacons). One was attached to my daughter whevever we flew. I had the second in my kit bag. The aircraft had an installed version. If we crash landed, the distress beacon(s) would sound on 121.5mHz. All aircraft, especially commercial airliners, monitor that frequency, all the time. Many aviators have been rescued following a report from an airliner.
VH-XFS was hired from Navair, one of the struggling general aviation outfits at Bankstown. They did flight training, charters, and in this case brokered the rental of the Bonanza which was owned by someone we did not know.
Really busy cockpit, with one entry door on right. Pilot always sits in the left seat, but in a helicopter the right seat. Go figure (Aircraft pilots are often disdainful of helicopters, example: 'several thousand nuts and bolts flying in close formation!')
With pre-flight checks done, load secured, and after engine start checks (control surfaces, instruments, fuel tanks, propeller pitch and radios) all completed, we got clearance and lined up on runway 11L (left). Powering up, the three blade prop and big six engine threw us down the runway. Pulling the nose up and rotating, the cockpit door suddenly burst open with a rush of noise and all the charts flew everywhere. It was deafening chaos.
I did what the training says, and flew the mission. Aviate, navigate, communicate is the mantra and I remained calm. As did Jess, amazingly since the cockpit door was on her side, and she was looking through the gap at Milperra Road, 1,000 feet below.
Light aircraft are not pressurized, meaning we fly in regular air and not over 10,000 feet high. The airflow was disrupted by the door being open. Climbing at 85 knots, we were doing almost 160kph and the door was luffing about 90mm open.
If you're frustrated at the mix of imperial and metric, that's aviation for you!
I called the tower with a Pan message (Pan means a semi important situation, 'Possible Assistance Needed' which is different to a MAYDAY) and flew a circuit to land on the same runway. Pulling off to a taxi bay, we tried to shut the door. It resisted many efforts, and then latched.
We took off again. The door would pop open later, we should have had a delay while it was properly fixed.
MISTAKE 2
Stopping at Roma for fuel, we had another door opening disaster and once fixed we then hopped over to Carnarvon National Park for a couple of nights. The Gorge was worth seeing. The park guide had suggested landing at Ingelara strip, which is a grass runway within a cattle property. There was a second alternative at Rewan. It's about 3.5nm's to the north east of Ingelara, but we chose Ingelara.
After two days of trekking and having fun in the Gorge, we returned to find the Bonanza surrounded by fucking huge cattle. It took Jess and I twenty crazy minutes to chase them far enough away.
They had smeared the sides of the aircraft with dung, but worse had bent the pitot tube (essential for airspeed instruments) and one aileron - the hinged wing surface that allows the aircraft to turn. The leading edge was bent upwards, from a steer or ten rubbing their itches - or their arses - on the thing.
I bent everything approximately correctly, and we took off down the bumpy grass strip, eyes wide for wandering beef. On rotation, the aircraft pulled to the left, so clearly I hadn't done a good enough job. Plus I had low airspeed indication.
Landing again, dodging one errant cow, I finessed the bending of the aileron, and dug crap out of the pitot tube. Mumbling and muttering the whole time.
We took off again and headed for Mount Isa, via Long Reach. It was almost enough to turn me vegetarian.
We should have taken a portable electric fence.
MISTAKE 3
Spending the night in Mount Isa was fairly ordinary - it was very bland. The next morning I was appalled to see low cloud, in fact it was hanging over the top of the mine smoke stack. The refueller said he had never seen it that low! The stack is 150 metres tall, which is less than 500 feet - the final approach height in the circuit.
The 'circuit' is the name of the flying pattern over an airport.
About the circuit: the three legs of the circuit start with a fly-over at 1,500 feet on the 'dead side', or the side not used. Most circuits are 'left handed', some are 'right'. Then you join the circuit at 1,000 feet downwind, fly up the 'active' side of the circuit, parallel to the runway which is about 45 degrees down to your left, turn 'base' when you are well past the end of the approach runway, so you then are at 90 degrees to the runway for the 'base' leg, and descend to 500' to join 'final', where you are lined up to land.
Cloud at 500' is impossible, as a visual flight rules (VFR) flight one must be at least 1,000 feet UNDER cloud.
This was a major bother, as we had a lot of flying to do that day. Pacing around didn't make the cloud lift. I called the refueller in Borroloola up at the Gulf. His wife answered.
'How is the weather there?' I asked.
'Glorious', she said. That's what I wanted to hear!
I figured we could fly low out of Isa, as there are no obstructions and I had a new GPS that had earned my respect the previous few flights. I was still flying with charts and computations, and using the GPS to validate ground speed and drift from crosswinds. I never stopped flying this way - relying on one device is dangerous.
There was no control tower to dob us in, so off we went, following the road out of Isa to the north-west. It was low, gloomy, and bumpy.
Eventually the cloud stabised at about 2,000 feet but we wanted clear air for cruise, so we punched through the layer and headed up to 8,000 and sat up there until top of descent, almost 5 hours out of Isa. But all I could see was a carpet of cloud under us! We'd had the cloud since Isa.

Not a lot to see at Borroloola
I descended to 2,000 feet above ground (AGL), and approached what I figured was the location of the airstrip, but the town was cloaked in cloud, so we could not proceed. I needed to enter the 'circuit' or the approach pattern for the airstrip at 1,500', and without visual anything, could not descend into the clouds. When the clouds are close to the ground - and these were at circuit height - it is insane to descend into them.
I pulled the chart to plot the distance and heading to our only alternate, which was an Aboriginal mission about 70 miles away that did not have fuel. We would be stuck there until we could pay someone to haul a 200 litre drum and a hand pump from Borroloola, which could take days. The idea made me shudder.
I had a satellite phone for that contingency.
Suddenly the clouds parted, and there was the runway!
The refueller wandered over from his house nearby when he heard us land.
'So your wife told me the weather was glorious', I said with a hint of frustration.
'Yer mite, it's the fuckin' dry season so any rain is fuckin' glorious don't yer reckon?'
We should have stayed in Mount Isa an extra night.
MISTAKE 4
By now we'd jammed the cockpit door shut forever, and were climbing over the seats to enter and deplane via the coach doors.
The B36 has two doors, as the picture shows, on the starboard (right) side. The pilot position is port (left) side, all planes are left-hand drive.
From Borroloola we flew to Jabiru, the town on the border of Arnhem Land which is a vast Aboriginal Reserve about 500km east of Darwin. We fuelled up again, and took off for Davidson's Arnhemland Safari Lodge at Mount Borradaile. Located within Arnhem Land, Max Davidson obtained a lease from the traditional owners.
He or more likely his family now, as he is quite old, clearly have a special affinity with the place. It is a 700 square kilometre reserve centered on the mystical Mount Borradaile and the massive lagoon that sits under it. When we went, Max had a lucrative sideline in hunting trips, with mostly European tourists paying him a motza to shoot pigs or whatever. That part of the business appears to have closed these days.
Words can't describe the landscape and the wildlife - it seems to be the most densely populated part of the world, with every kind of water bird, crocodile and creature possible. At sunset a million magpie geese take off, a classic icon for the Northern Territory. It is really, really good there in the dry season, we visited in early July. Don't leave it too late in the season, as the water holes dry up.
The hidden rock art and relics from the traditional people tells a vivid and sad story. This is the best rock art in Australia, some of it tells of European explorers well before Cook. The tribe there had contact with Makassan trepangers (traders) from the southwest corner of Sulawesi (Indonesia). Remnants and pictures in the caves prove it.
It is eerie in the caves. The tribe put their dead up a tree for the birds to feed from, then took the skeletal remains and wrapped them in paper bark. Some of them still rest in rock crevices in the caves. You can hear their ghostly voices distant in the depths, if you stand still long enough.
The tribe eventually succumbed to the lure of the missionaries at Gunbalanya - Oenpelli as then known. They walked off the land for a soft life, and soon many died as they couldn't cope with white man food and diseases.
Goodle Davidson's Arnhemland Safari Lodge at Mount Borradaile to find some amazing stories about the place.
The tracks through paper bark forests and hidden billabongs are blissful.
At night, in our (supplied) tent/cabin, we heard the howling of dingos on the full moon. I highly recommend this place, as it connects you with the ancient land like nowhere else.
After a few nights here, we headed to the airstrip to depart. A charter pilot came in, and we had a chat about landing on roads ahead of storm fronts, and ways to start the cantankerous Continental engine in the Bonanza. 'Just crank her fully lean, and pulse the fuel pump continually to squirt juice in there, then go rich', he suggested. It worked.
A one hour flight north took us out of Arnhem land, and into Midjari, on Vashion Head. We stayed at Seven Spirits Bay for a couple of nights, then headed to Darwin via Jabiru for fuel.
Darwin air traffic control is run by the military, as the airport is a shared facility. Inbound at Lake Finniss, you get clearance. This is where my troubles began.
The controller at Darwin was short tempered, and short on directions. I knew I was to track to Adelaide River, then Hope Inlet. He read my clearance at machine gun speed, then left me to figure what he said. The guy was refusing to read back, or acknowledge my calls to confirm my clearance.
I should have 'required' him to do so, and reported him. His conduct made me less confident, and thus less safe. In crowded airspace, there can't be uncertainty. You have to 'fly the mission'. Australian Military controllers are notorious for poor conduct towards recreational pilots.
MISTAKE 5
We had a night in Darwin in the best hotel we could find. Room service and a regular bathtub cannot be beaten. Then it was off to Ayers Rock, with an early departure from the confusing taxiway system at Darwin, allied with another gruff and unhelpful clearance from the tower.
Tennant Creek was our fuel stop, on what was a very long flying day.
West of Alice Springs, near West MacDonnell National Park I spotted a crashed aircraft. We were at 6,000 feet, so I circled down for a better look. It was on obvious smashed single engine aircraft, painted white. I got onto Air Services in Adelaide on the high frequency radio, and they took the co-ordinates and asked me to orbit.
Which I did.
Ten minutes later I was onto them again, they still had no info and asked me to continue orbiting. I declared a fuel contingency and told them I was resuming my flight, we climbed out and continued on to Ularu (Ayers Rock).
Eventually in the late afternoon we arrived, landed, and on opening the door were greeted by the largest and most annoying flock of flies I've ever met. We got a shuttle bus over to the overpriced resort, climbed the rock the next day (before the ridiculous politically correct 'ban' on climbing Ayers Rock come to be) and vowed never to return.
My mistake? I forgot to cancel SARTIME. When you submit a flight plan (which is not mandatory but a VERY GOOD IDEA, you nominate a time that is at least an hour after your latest possible arrival time. If you don't call in, they activate a period of uncertainty, and eventually start looking for you. Aviation time is always GMT, which is the current time in ENGLAND. My SARTIME was 5pm local, which was 7.30am GMT, on the same day. We had left at 8am (Darwin) which was 10.30pm the previous day (GMT).
Anyway, a terse call to the resort from Adelaide flight services put me on notice. When I asked about the crashed aircraft, the guy said 'yes of course, EVERYONE knows there is a Piper in those hills, that's why we had it painted WHITE'. Like, I am an idiot?
WRAP
Hometime and we punched through scattered cloud and set the auto pilot for Birdsville. Much desert passed under the nose, and I took a couple of power naps while Jess monitored the flight. We refueled, had lunch, and plugged the heading for Bourke into the autopilot.
Out of Bourke the clouds built up, and we got underneath, only to run into a wall of clag near Warren. We landed, got a taxi to a Motel, and the next day flew in the clear to Banksown, via Dubbo.
Hiring a plane you pay only for hours flown, 'on the clock'. You pay around $425 an hour 'wet' (including fuel) in 2014 dollars, and they subtract the hourly fuel at the Sydney cost of fuel. For example, current cost is about $1.80 per litre for fuel within the hourly rate. It gets confusing. This trip was to burn about 2,000 litres and take 29 flying hours. In todays cost that would be $12,325 for the hire, and another $3,000 for fuel excess, or the difference between the 'Sydney' price of fuel, and whatever you pay en-route.
Some of the refuellers had a handy rort going, they would only sell you a 200 litre drum. If you needed 100 litres, you paid for 200 - at the remote rate, which could be double Sydney - and left the rest there.
We were so happy with our trip, we talked my wife into coming on our next one.








